![]() ![]() ![]() The Gay Head Cliffs in Aquinnah Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff We were disappointed the Raw Bar was closed on our visit instead of slurping, we walked the main street up the hill to Naval Lookout Point, an old battery station, with spectacular views. “During the summer, they motor around the harbor offering fresh oysters on the half shell to boaters and visitors,” Solway said. A small market and a couple of take-out shacks line Fish Dock where we landed, including the Harbor Raw Bar, serving Cuttyhunk Island oysters. It is exactly what we want a New England island to be: well-maintained cottages and homes hugging the shoreline and rambling up hills, blooming flower boxes, gravel backroads, a community message board, a tiny K-12 schoolhouse, and views galore. The outermost island in the Elizabeth Island chain is Cuttyhunk, a pretty slice of land with a small community. Later, we spotted a large herd of Scottish Highland cows, big, hardy animals with horns, grazing and swimming in the water. It was a scene that was more verdant Scottish Highlands than New England coastline. ![]() We snapped photos of the black and white, “Oreo” cows as they grazed in the grass, laid in the sunshine and cooled in the water. What a nice private island life they had, one-percenter cows! The water was 61 degrees obviously warm enough for bovines but not for us. The cows were nowhere in sight until we left the cove and turned the corner, and there they were. Solway stopped the boat in pretty Tarpaulin Cove overlooking the Tarpaulin Cove Lighthouse and a historic Colonial home nestled on the sandy shoreline. We passed Nonamesset Island, circled around a couple of striper fishermen, and motored along the shoreline of Naushon Island, the largest privately owned island in the Northeast. It was a gorgeous day, bright and sunny, with great visibility. We motored around the West Chop Lighthouse, and into the choppy waters of Vineyard Sound. All but two of the islands are owned by the Forbes family, a wealthy Boston-based enclave, who made their money trading opium and tea in the 19th century. The trip is a long one, covering 50 miles around the Elizabeth Islands, a chain of 13 islands off the Cape Cod coastline, just north of Martha’s Vineyard. A post shared by Nobnocket | Martha’s Vineyard might be a little sporty out there,” Captain Eamonn Solway said the following morning as we boarded his 26-foot, six-passenger charter boat. ![]()
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